At Bedin with Andrea Serra: Genoa’s heritage meets a new culinary style
Ligurian tradition, contemporary pizza, heritage transformed into an experience.
In the heart of Genoa, in Piazza Dante, stands one of the city’s oldest historic restaurants
Bedin dal 1862 combines the tradition of Ligurian cuisine with a modern take on pizza and baked goods. Here, every dish is crafted to evoke a memory: that of a family Sunday, of authentic flavors, of mopping up sauce with bread. Cuisine that stirs the soul, pizza that surprises, an experience that lingers.
Stepping into Bedin dal 1862 means encountering a history that Genoa has known for generations. But what struck me, as I listened to the vision of chef and pizza maker Andrea Serra, was his determination to bring that history to life in the present.
Serra has returned to his hometown after gaining experience throughout Italy and abroad, from Sardinia to Barcelona. In his view, Ligurian tradition isn’t just a collection of recipes to be replicated: it’s made up of flavors, memories, and ingredients that serve as a starting point for exploring new possibilities.
“My work always begins with memory: with the flavors of Ligurian tradition and the memories those dishes evoke.”
These words help us understand the direction of his cuisine.Pesto, walnut sauce, seasonal vegetables, fish, and locally sourced ingredients maintain a recognizable connection to the region. Technical innovation comes into play to give them a personal voice, without erasing their identity.
The same attention to detail extends to his work with dough.Serra speaks of high hydration levels and fermentation times that can last up to 48 hours, in pursuit of lightness, aroma, and varied textures. Here, pizza plays a central role in the culinary concept: from the Roman-style peel to the small skillet, each format offers a different way of interpreting the ingredients.
Even the names of some dishes reflect this connection to the region. “Profumo di Portofino” evokes the Ligurian coast; the menu dedicated to San Marzano, on the other hand, explores the possibilities of a single ingredient through different preparations and textures. These are examples of a cuisine that draws inspiration from what we know and invites us to view it with curiosity.
Bedin embodies an informal dining experience that leaves room for innovation and quality.
Here, the line between pizzeria and restaurant grows increasingly blurred: this is evident in the pairings, the attention to the dough, and the selection of ingredients. Cabannina beef, a hallmark of the Ligurian region, is paired with select tomatoes, high-quality dairy products, and seasonal vegetables.
The relationship with small-scale producers also helps shape the identity of a menu that, from the very beginning, has followed a clear direction.
Bedin bears the year 1862 in its name and is part of Genoa’s culinary heritage. Following its closure and renovation, its reopening in 2026 marks the beginning of a new chapter. This is perhaps the most interesting aspect of the experience: seeing a historic establishment return as a gathering place, capable of welcoming those who, after leaving, have chosen to bring their work back to Genoa.
One gets the impression that Andrea Serra has found in Bedin the perfect place to bring together his various passions: Ligurian cuisine, pizza, and research on leavened products.
And that the story of this place still has much to tell, one dish at a time.
