There is a well-trodden path in contemporary watchmaking: one where fashion brands seek to establish credibility by adopting the language of traditional watchmaking. Some pursue technical references that are not part of their heritage, while others rely on tried-and-true aesthetic formulas. Ferragamo takes a different path. It does not try to appear as something it is not, but brings to the sector a design sensibility that has always been part of its own universe.
Among the new additions to the Spring-Summer 2026 collection, the new Gancini models are likely the clearest example of this approach. They do not seek to redefine the concept of a watch, nor do they aim to compete with the industry’s more traditional categories. Rather, the goal appears to be creating an object capable of expressing a distinct identity through form, proportions, and presence on the wrist.
The Gancini Beyond the Logo
When a distinctive element becomes an integral part of a brand’s identity, there is a risk that it will end up becoming merely an aesthetic signature. In Ferragamo’s case, however, the Gancini continues to serve as a design tool.
In the new Double Gancini, the symbol is not applied as decoration but used to construct the entire architecture of the watch. The double-wrap version creates a bold visual effect, establishing an interesting dialogue between the compact geometry of the case and the more fluid lines of the bracelet. The single-wrap variant follows a different, more minimalist logic but retains the same recognizability.
The 19mm case helps define the model’s character. Its compact dimensions do not seek to dominate, but allow the whole to retain balance and visual lightness. The sunray-finished dial adds depth through light reflections, without overloading the display with superfluous details.
A design that emphasizes continuity
One of the most interesting aspects of the design is the way the case and bracelet seem to form a single, cohesive whole. The torchon finish on the case introduces movement without resorting to excessive ornamentation, while the bracelet features a modular design that naturally follows the contours of the wrist.
It is a watch that changes visibly depending on the angle and the light. The reflections on the textured dial, protected by sapphire crystal, are not uniform and help make the watch appear more dynamic than its size would suggest.
The reference to the world of silk and Ferragamo accessories remains present, but is never stated in a didactic manner. It is a suggestion that emerges through the forms rather than through explicit references.
The essential, without artifice
From a technical standpoint, Ferragamo opts for simplicity. The Swiss-made Ronda 1032 2H quartz movement ensures reliability and precision, while the watch features sapphire crystal and water resistance up to 30 meters.
These features are consistent with the nature of the design. There is no attempt to transform the Double Gancini into something other than what it is. No pursuit of mechanical complexity, no desire to follow codes foreign to its own identity.
And this is perhaps the most compelling aspect. In a market where many fashion brands try to align themselves with the imagery of haute horlogerie to legitimize their presence, Ferragamo takes a clearer stance. On the wrist, the Double Gancini functions first and foremost as a design object, crafted with care and characterized by a recognizable aesthetic.
It may not satisfy those seeking technical sophistication or mechanical virtuosity, but that does not appear to be its goal. Its strength lies in its consistency. And in an industry where existing models are often imitated, having a recognizable voice is still a value that is far from a given.
Ferragamo remains one of the highest expressions of Made in Italy: not just fashion, but a culture of craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and an Italian identity recognized worldwide.
Craftsmanship, vision, and beauty capable of standing the test of time.
