Gianfranco Montano: the courage and strength of know-how

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Gianfranco Montano was born and raised in Sant’Arcangelo, in the heart of Basilicata. Like many of his generation, he left, seeking elsewhere the stability that his homeland seemed unable to offer. In Parma, he found a secure job, but he didn’t feel like he was in the right place. The call of his hands, of doing, of creating something of his own was stronger.

His return was not a step backwards, but an act of courage. Montano opened a small shop in his hometown, initially dedicated to shoe repair: the only one in the municipality. Then came his encounter with Florence, with its footwear tradition, with Polimoda and the Riaci Academy. It was a profound transformation: from a simple craftsman to a guardian of knowledge.

 

From that moment on, bespoke shoes were created entirely by hand, one by one, far removed from the logic of mass production. Word of mouth first brought him to local customers, then to well-known names such as Francis Ford Coppola, Carlo Verdone, Al Bano, and Carlo Conti. Eventually, he reached New York, where BESPOKE and his creations were presented to the Columbus Citizens Foundation.

Bespoke is the brainchild of a stubborn and tenacious man with a visionary mind and two golden hands.

Capable of transforming an anonymous piece of leather into items of the highest value. Into shoes, to be precise: unique pieces, no two alike and therefore unrepeatable. BESPOKE shoes are all handmade.

His story combines provincial life and the wider world, silence and recognition, slowness and vision. We met him at the opening of Pitti Uomo, in Florence, where he found his calling. And we asked him “two questions”…

Is it more difficult to be an artisan or an entrepreneur in Italy today?

Today, it’s difficult to be both. Artisans must also become entrepreneurs, communicators, and administrators. They often lack tools, protection, and a long-term vision. But the greatest difficulty is remaining faithful to quality without bowing to the rush of the market.

Why is “handmade” perceived as a luxury abroad, while in Italy it often is not?

Because abroad, people pay for rarity, time, and history. In Italy, we take what belongs to us for granted. Handmade is confused with “old,” not with “unique.” It is, first and foremost, a cultural issue.

Time: a resource or an obstacle in today’s market?

It is only a problem for those who mass-produce. For craftsmanship, it is the main resource: without time, there is no quality, care, or identity. The real luxury today is the time dedicated to doing things well.

Is Made in Italy more of a slogan or a responsibility?

It is a great responsibility. Writing “Made in Italy” means guaranteeing expertise, selected materials, and work ethic. If it becomes just a slogan, it loses value for everyone.

Does the artisan supply chain still exist or has it been broken?

It exists, but it is fragile. In some areas, it survives thanks to a few people who preserve rare skills. When a workshop closes, it is not just a business that dies, but an entire part of the supply chain.

What is not said about Italian craftsmanship?

No one talks about the hard work, the loneliness, the years of invisible training. People talk about the finished product, rarely about the journey. Behind a handcrafted object there are sacrifices, study, and unconventional choices.

If craftsmanship disappeared, what would we lose as a country?

We would lose our identity. We would lose the ability to recognize ourselves in what we produce. Italy without craftsmanship would be a country that consumes, but no longer tells its own story.

What makes a product authentic?

Consistency: between those who make it, how it is made, and why. An authentic product is not created to please everyone, but to be true.

Is the market still willing to wait?

Part of it is, and that’s the most aware part. It’s not a mass market, but it’s solid. Those who know how to wait also know how to recognize value.

How important is customer education?

Extremely important. An informed customer does not ask for discounts on time or on quality. They know what they are buying and why it has a certain price.

Tradition: limitation or tool?

A tool, if you really understand it. Tradition is not repetition: it is a solid foundation from which to create something contemporary.

Is luxury still about craftsmanship?

True luxury is. The rest is marketing. Craftsmanship brings with it imperfection, and imperfection is what makes an object human.

Is it possible to grow without industrialization?

Yes, if you redefine the concept of growth. It doesn’t mean producing more, but producing better: being recognizable, sustainable, consistent.

What responsibility do those who bring Made in Italy abroad have today?

They have a responsibility to describe it for what it really is, without shortcuts. Every product becomes a cultural ambassador, not just a commercial one.

In the silence of his workshop, Gianfranco Montano remembers every day why he chose to return. Not for comfort, but for belonging. Because certain stories cannot be written elsewhere: they are born where the land recognizes you and calls you by name.

His shoes are not just about technique, leather, and shapes. They speak of roots, of returns, of hands that are not afraid to be slow. They speak of an Italy that resists, that creates, that continues to believe in the value of things done well.

And every time one of his shoes crosses the world, it is a piece of that history that resumes its journey—without forgetting where it started.

However, Gianfranco Montano‘s gaze is already looking ahead. Among his priorities is the creation of a shoemaking school in Basilicata, a place where young people can be trained and taught not only techniques but also values and a sense of belonging, so that an ancient craft does not die out. At the same time, the project for a workshop in New York is taking shape, to strengthen the presence of his brand in one of the most vibrant and competitive markets in the world.

His shoes, strictly unique and handmade, not only speak of technique and craftsmanship: they preserve roots, returns, time devoted without haste. They tell the story of an Italy that never stops creating, that carries on the beauty of careful craftsmanship, that recognizes value where others see only slowness.

And every time one of his creations travels far, it is a fragment of that history that resumes its journey—without ever betraying the point from which it started.

The story of Montano shows that craftsmanship is not only about memory and tradition, but also about vision, courage, and the ability to evolve. From Basilicata to New York, his bespoke shoes become ambassadors of an authentic Made in Italy, capable of combining local roots and global ambitions through quality, identity, and culture.

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