UNA FAVOLA DI MORTADELLA: The book that tells the story of the intuition that changed Italian charcuterie
Thirty years after the creation and patenting of Favola mortadella, Una Favola di Mortadella is published, a book that tells the story of the Palmieri family, the Modena area, and an innovation that has become an icon.
It is edited by Davide Paolini, who first introduced Favola to the general public in 2002 with an article in his column “A me mi piace” in Il Sole 24 Ore. We met him at Taste in Florence, an event he created, where the book was presented at the Teatro del Sale during the “Favola & Champagne” event, part of the Fuori di Taste calendar.
Paolini, why tell the story of Favola today?
“Because it is concrete proof that tradition is a successful innovation. Favola was born from an industrial but deeply cultural intuition: to recover ancient knowledge and reinterpret it with a contemporary vision. It is not just a product, it is a paradigm shift in Italian charcuterie.”
You discovered it and told its story for the first time in 2002. What struck you then?
“The courage. In a world where mortadella was perceived as a popular and standardized product, the Palmieri family chose a different path: hand-sewn casings, slow cooking in stone ovens, rigorous selection of raw materials. It was almost a counter-cultural gesture.”
The book spans four generations. What kind of story did you want to tell?
“A story of the territory even before a story of the company. It starts with the small shop opened in Modena by great-grandfather Emilio Palmieri, moves on to San Prospero and the expansion desired by Carlo, and ends with the 1996 patent. Then there is the continuity with Massimo, Marcello, and Michele, now joined by Francesco and Margherita. It is a family saga that reflects the evolution of Emilia’s manufacturing industry.”
The 2012 earthquake is a central chapter.
“Yes, it’s a wound, but also a test of identity. The ancient stone ovens were saved by the earthquake that struck Emilia. The solidarity of the local community and other salami producers allowed the company to be reborn and open a new factory in just 435 days. It’s the profound sense of a community that never gives up.”
Has Favola changed the language of mortadella?
“I would say it has changed the way people look at it. It has elevated a popular product, transforming it into a symbol of high quality. And then there was that famous article in which I proposed combinations that were considered heretical at the time: Favola and champagne, oysters and Lambrusco. I wanted to break the mold. Taste evolves when someone dares to be bold.”
What role did Taste play in this story?
“A fundamental one. Taste was created precisely to give space to products that are both distinctive and innovative. At its first edition, Favola showed that Italian charcuterie could speak a new, international language.”
What makes this mortadella different from others?
“Consistency. The hand-sewn casing—a true culinary work of art—the recipe handed down over time, the two classic flavors and Sicilian pistachio. But above all, the vision: deep respect for what came before and the ability to look ahead.”
Memory, enterprise, gastronomic culture
Published by Gruppo Editoriale and enriched with unpublished images by photographer Dario Garofalo, Una Favola di Mortadella is more than a company book: it is the story of how an idea can stand the test of time and become cultural heritage.
Because, as Davide Paolini reminds us, “the most authentic innovation always comes from respect.”
